Hey forum,

Even though we have a few threads on the subject already, I wanted to create one that chronicles my adventures in putting a Getrag S6S 420G manual transmission into my 1994 M60 840Ci. Now, please keep in mind that this is a LONG TERM project, so updates might be a little scarce. That said, I have already begun to gather the parts necessary to complete the swap:

https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7168/13342342935_94a41a529e_o.jpg


For this project, the shift knob, E31-specific linkage parts, and hardware will be new from BMW, but in an effort to make this swap as economical as possible:

The transmission will be sourced used (likely from an E34 or E39 540i)

The clutch will be purchased new online.

Clutch/brake pedals, pedal bracket, and clutch hydraulics will be taken out of a junked manual-transmission E34 5-Series.

The drive shaft will be sourced overseas or custom-made

and the differential has already been swapped out with a 3.15 limited-slip unit from an early E32 750iL.



***A full parts list will be added once everything is acquired.

Cool and finally! ;)

sounds good, also has any one put a 4.4 m62 into a Hole where a m60 was? What sensors need to be changed? Modified?

sounds good, also has any one put a 4.4 m62 into a Hole where a m60 was? What sensors need to be changed? Modified?

Yes, you just keep it OBDI, and use the 4.4L block. Seen two done so far in person. I don't see what this has to do with the 6-speed though.

Looking forward to this Olin. Anything different needed to do the swap on an M62 car?

Looking forward to this Olin. Anything different needed to do the swap on an M62 car?

The only difference I'm guessing would be the electronic procedures needed to get the car to start without the automatic. Also, you might need to use a transmission from the later E39 540i and not the earlier one to accommodate the crankshaft position sensor, which is at the flywheel of the M62 instead of the front on the the M60.

A project you've been contemplating for a while Olin. Are you planning to go with BMW parts right across the board, or have you thought about using some after market stuff, like shifter, clutch, etc? A worthy enterprise sir. Will this make you stand alone as a 6 speed 840 owner in North America?

Are you planning to go with BMW parts right across the board, or have you thought about using some after market stuff, like shifter, clutch, etc?

No aftermarket stuff. I want it to be as if BMW built it from the factory.


Will this make you stand alone as a 6 speed 840 owner in North America?

No, I know of at least four, personally seen two, and have driven one.

Not to be a jerk, but wouldn't it be easier and cheaper to source a V12 6speed?

Not to be a jerk, but wouldn't it be easier and cheaper to source a V12 6speed?

No because they are rare, not cheap, and would likely not already be as sorted out as the one I've owned for 6+ years...Then I'd be stuck trying to sell this one in a relatively soft used car market. Aside from that, it wouldn't be a V8 6-speed, which is the whole point of this endeavor. Also keep in mind that a used transmission for this car goes for $600-1000 depending where you find it (not an expensive rarity like the V12) the pedals and stuff will be pennies on the dollar at a pick-your-part junkyard, and I get employee pricing on all the new parts, which is cost+ pricing, not a % discount, so some things are like 80% off.

Not to be a jerk, but wouldn't it be easier and cheaper to source a V12 6speed?

That you just make it a wannabe CSI :P

- - - Updated - - -

Keep us posted! I am still considering doing an S62 conversion + 6 speed ;)

Hey forum,

Even though we have a few threads on the subject already, I wanted to create one that chronicles my adventures in putting a Getrag S6S 420G manual transmission into my 1994 M60 840Ci.


Humm...moved to Coto de Caza (or somewhere close), new 4 series, now this. Lotto winner or recent cartel inductee? Guess "silver" won't be present at the next couple of WrenchFests.Looking forward to the outcome. There's an 840 that was at one of the earlier WF's that had the conversion...all I recall is that it was navy or dark blue.

Humm...moved to Coto de Caza (or somewhere close), new 4 series, now this. Lotto winner or recent cartel inductee?

Hardly...I'm actually not spending that much on this project. And I've seen cell phone bills that are higher than what they charge me for that 4-Series.


There's an 840 that was at one of the earlier WF's that had the conversion...all I recall is that it was navy or dark blue.

Yeah, it's also a 94. Avus Blue with the 4.4L block swap too. It belongs to John Burgan:

http://socaleights.com/wp-content/uploads/past-COTM/COTM_december_2012.pdf

Great project and I'll be following it as so far one of the things that has held me back from getting an E31 is the lack of manual transmission cars available here...yes I know they are available with the V12, but they are somewhat few and far between and sometimes command a premium that makes this project make sense. Are you going to be changing out the gauge cluster as well, or is it really necessary?

Olin - will this project start soon? Will you make the Mullen trip with us?

Cool to see you finally moving along with this... btw that e31 you linked is stunning. ESP those wheels!!

Thx Olin, that means there's 2 conversions. The other 840 was definitely a darker hue and definitely not John's 8er.

Are you going to be changing out the gauge cluster as well, or is it really necessary?

Not necessary. The manuals have the exact same instruments, but without the EGS inputs from the automatic transmission, the gear indicator LCD is blank.


Olin - will this project start soon? Will you make the Mullen trip with us?

As soon as possible. I need to locate a LOT more parts, and I might not be doing the work at my house. I will complete this, but it's a long term project. This thread might be quiet for several months. Don't worry.

I work every weekend, so unfortunately I miss a lot of the get-togethers. Definitely won't miss Bimmerfest though.


Thx Olin, that means there's 2 conversions. The other 840 was definitely a darker hue and definitely not John's 8er.

And there are others! Ron Inchausti (the mechanic in charge of John's did a Diamond Black one for himself) and a previous forum member, "Nukeduster" I believe did one too.

He did, Nuke sold that car though.

Yeah, it's also a 94. Avus Blue with the 4.4L block swap too. It belongs to John Burgan:

http://socaleights.com/wp-content/uploads/past-COTM/COTM_december_2012.pdf
Spent 5 hours in that car. John is a cool dude.

This is a fun project!!! Will keep watching..

It's gone feel like you are driving a whole different car afterwards.. a better one!!

Avee up here in BC converted his 840. Also supercharged it...

Will be following this closely Olin, Great project

UPDATE 4/20/14:

Picked up the meat of the swap this morning... The S6S420G:

https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7052/13952283553_9b534f4158_c.jpg


The condition looked a little rough, so I am concerned. I think it has been sitting in the garage a LONG time. I don't have any experience with these units, so if anyone can offer some advice on how to judge its condition, that would be much appreciated. The input shaft is rusty, etc, but I got the transmission down to $300 (sorry V12ers), so it was worth the risk to me.

Ok,, as i am not well in the US 840 history,, but as far as i understand,, there are 3 examples of 840 6g in the states,, are they oem G420,, or converted cars ??

A manual gearbox full of oil will probably last for tens of years just hiding in a corner!

THE PARTS LIST

This is everything I have now. :)


Transmission:
Getrag S6S 420G (E39 540i M.Y. 2000)
Guide tube 23111222722
Input shaft seal 23121228493
Selector seal 23127501582
Output shaft seal 23121222769
Reverse switch 23147524811 (found connector and made wiring)
Cross member 23701092201
Rubber mounting (2) 23701141614
Hex nut with plate (2) 22316760944
Hex bolt with washer (4) 22326760945
Hex nut (2) 07119904032
Washer (2) 07119900052
2 liters Pentosin MTF2 (1.7L fill)

Drive shaft:
Drive shaft 26101227880 (new flex disc pre-installed from factory)

Clutch/Flywheel:
Set of clutch parts 21217528209 (E39 240mm)
Twin-mass flywheel (with bolts) 21201223581 (E39 240mm)
Clutch bolts (6) 07119906045 (E39)
Clutch fork 21511204229
Pivot point 21511223328
Ball bearing (flywheel) 11211720310
Optional: Flywheel bolt tool 83300491018 (E39)

Clutch Hydraulics:
Input cylinder 21521155425
Hex bolt (2) 07119915031
Fit bolt 21521151447
Self-locking hex nut (2) 07129906196
Connector 21521151697
Hose 21521163714
Grommet 21521156082
Pipe 21521162357
Bow 37131133421
Bracket 37131133420
Absorbing piece 21521159564
Output cylinder 21526775924 (E39)
Pipe (NLA) 21521159392 or Pipe 21526751466 (E39)
Holder 21521164303
Grommet 21521164603
Locking Nut (2) 07129906196

Shifter:
Shift lever 25117527246
Shifting arm 25111222366
Bearing (shift lever) 25111220600
Selector rod 25111222367
Plastic washers (4) 25111220439
Securing clip (4) 25117571899
Gearshift rod joint 25117526415
Dowel pin 23411466134
Tension bush 25111203682
Plastic washer 25111434194
Shift arm bearing 25111222652
Rubber boot 25111434181
Bolt 25111222375
Bush bearing oval (2) 25117507695
Leather boot walk-nappa 25111221823

Pedals:
Pedal bracket (if using clutch switch bracket) 35111159647
Clutch pedal 35311155691
Rubber pad (clutch) 35211108634
Brake pedal 35211155686
Rubber pad (brake) 35211160422
Retainer spring (if using as clutch return spring) 35211158074
Bushing (2) 35211158290
Spacer sleeve 35211150346
Hex bolt 07119900237
Clutch switch 61318360421
Clutch switch bracket 35111159682

Exhaust mounting:
Cross member 18321702668
Rubber mounting (2) 18301723518
Exhaust support (2) 18311723986

Can't wait to see the results!

Good luck with the swap. I did a 850 6 speed swap. It was fairly straight forward. I suspect this will be similar. I did not use the clutch retainer spring. The clutch was easy to reverse bleed, but difficult to bleed the conventional way.

UPDATE:

I had the day off today, and the 8 now has three pedals! :cool

I decided to use the existing pedal bracket, which worked fine. The clutch return spring is fitted just like the brake return spring, and looks/works well. The pedal bracket is already drilled for those holes. I am forgoing the clutch switch bracket (for cruise cutoff) at this time, but I may add the bracket later when I end up ripping out the steering column to replace something unrelated that snapped in the tilt mechanism.

After some finagling of the parts in some very uncomfortable positions, the new brake pedal and clutch pedal went in fine. The only issue is that I had to remove the brake light switch from the pedal bracket, and now it won't stay in. So it looks like I have to replace that now... :(

That brake switch is expensive from the dealer. You have to pull out the center in order to squeeze the two prongs on the collar to remove the switch. One you get it, it's a piece of cake. Before that, it's a frustrating PITA. It's an uncomfortable position to try to be removing the switch and either you bend the metal piece, break the switch, or both. When you see how the new one works you'll say, gosh that was easy.

UPDATE:

The clutch return spring is fitted just like the brake return spring, and looks/works well.
I am forgoing the clutch switch bracket (for cruise cutoff) at this time, but I may add the bracket later when I end up ripping out the steering column to replace something unrelated that snapped in the tilt mechanism.

I removed the clutch return spring because the way it is designed, the clutch lever cams up and away and it does not allow shifting quickly. It does not snap back quickly enough. Without the spring is much better and the mast cylinder provides much quicker return, but the pedal only returns 95% of the way back to rest.

Some white piece that acted as a spacer snapped in my steering column and I could move the whole thing up and down a good 3 inches or more. After many hours of cursing and whining, I got the steering column out and stripped it down as much as I could. However, you cannot replace the spacer as the whole column is one unit. You can kind of remove things on the column when you get it out, but it would require pressing metal bushings out and drilling. I just stacked a bunch of washers on the electric motor adjuster bolt and that solved the issue. If you get the right amount you won't have any slop. Mine slops a tiny tiny bit when it reverts to the fully up position but sets in place for good if you pull it down just a tiny bit. Its good enough for me not to remove the whole thing again.


That brake switch is expensive from the dealer. You have to pull out the center in order to squeeze the two prongs on the collar to remove the switch. One you get it, it's a piece of cake. Before that, it's a frustrating PITA. It's an uncomfortable position to try to be removing the switch and either you bend the metal piece, break the switch, or both. When you see how the new one works you'll say, gosh that was easy.

I broke mine not realizing the center had to be pulled out. I figured that out after I snapped a prong..... I just bought one from an aftermarket manufacturer for $15 bucks and it works great.

4/13/15 UPDATE:

Replaced the brake light switch that I broke... There was a used one on eBay for $15 from an 840Ci actually, so I snagged it with free shipping.

Also wanted to do some service on the 6-speed gearbox while it was still out. Today I did the input shaft seal and the selector shaft seal. Also I mounted the new shift knuckle on the selector shaft:

https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8725/16953385740_7c62e1c6e2_z.jpg

The input seal is designed with two holes in the metal ring so that it can be pulled out with a "special tool" screwed into the rubber. I thought I would be smart and pull it out with a sheet metal screw and pliers, but that thing is rigid, and very tightly in there, so I mangled it. Though I was very careful not to scratch the input shaft or the transmission, the seal had to be annihilated to come out:

https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7615/17140289011_6f6d784d94_z.jpg

https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8762/16953150778_43d78d94e4_z.jpg

I cleaned out the area well and prepared it with some MTF for the new seal.

The selector shaft seal was a little easier. First I removed the E39 knuckle. To do this you just pry back the retaining ring, and tap out the pin that goes down the middle. The E39 one is shaped a bit differently:

https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8691/17140290111_017f12c949_z.jpg

Once it is off and cleaned up a bit, you can start picking the seal out. If you tap one side in, the other comes out enough to get under it with a screwdriver without scratching anything:

https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8762/16953152928_ce310af98f_z.jpg

https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7646/16953388500_3d8ac3bd80_z.jpg

A 12pt. 5/8" deep socket works perfect fit over the selector and tap in the seal evenly:

https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7634/17114985356_51fe775fc6_z.jpg

Greased the joint, and installed the proper selector part: (It came with a new insulating piece inside, so I have an extra to return)

https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7597/16933525947_ecf2bc9f45_z.jpg

:D


I will be heading to a friend's place for the heavy work soon, so I needed to see how I was going to bring the boxed-up drive shaft in the E31!

https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7649/16953386710_ba0be2dcb5_z.jpg

https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7649/16520753863_cbee153047_z.jpg

I know most of you guys find the ski bag useless, but it is perfect for this kind of stuff. I have carried several exhausts using it as well. lol

Super cool Olin - I am following this thread with anticipation. Keep the updates coming.

I also find the ski boot great for a lot of packages. Even took an entire exhaust around with it.


4/13/15 UPDATE:

Replaced the brake light switch that I broke... There was a used one on eBay for $15 from an 840Ci actually, so I snagged it with free shipping.

Also wanted to do some service on the 6-speed gearbox while it was still out. Today I did the input shaft seal and the selector shaft seal. Also I mounted the new shift knuckle on the selector shaft:

https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8725/16953385740_7c62e1c6e2_z.jpg

The input seal is designed with two holes in the metal ring so that it can be pulled out with a "special tool" screwed into the rubber. I thought I would be smart and pull it out with a sheet metal screw and pliers, but that thing is rigid, and very tightly in there, so I mangled it. Though I was very careful not to scratch the input shaft or the transmission, the seal had to be annihilated to come out:

https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7615/17140289011_6f6d784d94_z.jpg

https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8762/16953150778_43d78d94e4_z.jpg

I cleaned out the area well and prepared it with some MTF for the new seal.

The selector shaft seal was a little easier. First I removed the E39 knuckle. To do this you just pry back the retaining ring, and tap out the pin that goes down the middle. The E39 one is shaped a bit differently:

https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8691/17140290111_017f12c949_z.jpg

Once it is off and cleaned up a bit, you can start picking the seal out. If you tap one side in, the other comes out enough to get under it with a screwdriver without scratching anything:

https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8762/16953152928_ce310af98f_z.jpg

https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7646/16953388500_3d8ac3bd80_z.jpg

A 12pt. 5/8" deep socket works perfect fit over the selector and tap in the seal evenly:

https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7634/17114985356_51fe775fc6_z.jpg

Greased the joint, and installed the proper selector part: (It came with a new insulating piece inside, so I have an extra to return)

https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7597/16933525947_ecf2bc9f45_z.jpg

:D


I will be heading to a friend's place for the heavy work soon, so I needed to see how I was going to bring the boxed-up drive shaft in the E31!

https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7649/16953386710_ba0be2dcb5_z.jpg

https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7649/16520753863_cbee153047_z.jpg

I know most of you guys find the ski bag useless, but it is perfect for this kind of stuff. I have carried several exhausts using it as well. lol

Well, you'll be the second guy I know rolling with a manual 840. Just met a guy at Wuffer's this past weekend at the Wrenchfest with a clean 6 speed conversion. He new to the 8er experience I think. Nice guy. Not sure if he's on this forum yet.

4/29/15 UPDATE:

THE SWAP IS DONE

Here are some pics of the process...


The whole load of parts packed up and ready to drive up to my friend's place with room to work:

https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7780/17293172996_7efaba5ce3_z.jpg


Once raised on jack stands, we removed the entire exhaust system including the cats, o2 sensors, and associated bracketing, heat shields etc:

https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7665/17111153777_b11af7bfc1_z.jpg


Exhaust mounts on the 5HP30 auto:

https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7783/17111142387_13568b7091_z.jpg


These are the lines that run from the 5HP30 to the trans cooler mounted between the radiator and the AC condenser:

https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8704/16696131224_9bf155f0b2_z.jpg


I still have to remove the little heat exchanger for it, but since it's sandwiched, I will just take it out once I replace the radiator. This setup was VERY different from Terminator's thread on 8er.org. I guess the European trans cooler works totally different. Next was the removal of the old drive shaft and some under body cleaning... :)

Inside the car, the entire center console, switches, radio, OBC, and climate control must be removed. On the gear selector mechanism, the selector cable must be unhooked, and 3 mounting bolts unscrewed:

https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8739/16696144204_d149c09939_z.jpg


On my car, I had a bowden cable that went from the gear selector to the ignition lock, so that the key could not be removed unless the car was in Park. This detail was also a total surprise that had to be overcome simply by removing the cable, cutting the cable off so that the rod was permanently extended, and the stub of it reinstalled under the steering wheel behind the lock cylinder:

https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7669/16698322353_6a0c394a41_z.jpg


In order to allow access to the transmission mounting bolts on the bell housing, you have to remove the cabin air filter housing which is only held on with a few screws.

With the transmission wiring harness and oxygen sensor wiring pulled out of the way, the selector cable removed, and the drive shaft off, the transmission is clear to be lowered out:

https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8825/16698325673_d407547ce5_z.jpg


Without the exhaust and stuff all around it, the 5HP30 hangs pretty low on the car:

https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8735/17316728172_56c95a1ccc_z.jpg


Top bolts easily accessible from engine bay without the cabin filter housing in place:

https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7662/16696130224_d01e108ba1_z.jpg


Once the engine-side trans bolts and the rear mount bolts are loosened, the transmission can be pulled off the motor and lowered from the car. The torque converter spewed fluid and the thing had to be delicately removed due to its ridiculous size and weight. We used a low floor jack under a small dolly so the transmission could be backed off the motor slowly and then lowered down to the floor. Even with tall jack stands, it barely fit coming out from underneath the car. I expected it to be heavier than the 6-speed manual gearbox, but it was insanely heavy and big.

Note the size difference compared to the S6S420G in the background:

https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8728/17130805988_478bdda9ea_z.jpg


Under the car, I was happy to see the sheet metal bracket for the newer style shifter arm bearing (top center) not present on some early cars:

https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7726/17111140057_8d722ffbfb_z.jpg


Bunch of automatic parts removed:

https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8812/17132373609_ef684b0139_z.jpg


With the automatic flywheel unbolted from the engine, this is what the back side of the M60 looks like:

https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8692/16696129574_ded552da4b_z.jpg

If your rear main seal has not been replaced, now would be a great time to do it.


Pilot bearing installed:

https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8797/16698323763_eaa9586688_z.jpg


Dual-mass flywheel installed:

https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8753/16696128434_f535437a17_z.jpg


Clutch disc in place:

https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7701/17131028080_86f6a02c3d_z.jpg

Note: If using an E39 540i clutch and flywheel, this alignment tool is not the correct one. This tool only works with the earlier design without significant modification.


Pressure plate installed:

https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7669/16698322893_3f6a80f06b_z.jpg


Running the clutch hydraulics and installing the rubber grommets that go through the sheet metal of the firewall was kind of a bitch, especially since I was not removing the original pedal carrier assembly like most manual-swappers tend to do. Since this car had no electronic provision for the clutch switch anyway, I did not care that much about lacking the very small metal opening for the bolt that holds the switch bracket in place. This is something I may add later, but it is a low priority.

The round upper hole is where the feed hose comes from the brake fluid reservoir into the cabin to attach to the master cylinder, and the oblong hole is where the clutch master cylinder pokes through the firewall at an angle with the slave cylinder line on the end of it.

Pedals fully installed:

https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7722/17132357589_4f43e7b877_z.jpg


As a detail freak, the automatic's kick-down switch under the accelerator also had to go:

https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8747/17130787808_df940f0fcb_z.jpg

After:

https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7756/17292623616_37407c0e33_z.jpg


This is where the hydraulic feed-tube comes up to be attached to the brake fluid reservoir. The barbed connection point can just be snipped off after the fluid is removed:

https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7667/16696127004_8be241f95c_z.jpg


On the new transmission, a brand new pivot point, clutch fork, and guide tube were installed, as well as the throwout bearing from the clutch kit. You could also mount the slave cylinder onto the transmission while it is off the car.

6-speed transmission ready to go in:

https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8692/17318138851_0cb6ce5034_z.jpg


With the rear mount in place, the o2 sensor bracket fits onto it similarly to how it did on the auto:

https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8685/17318578855_6e2fe418ff_z.jpg


Shift linkage installed, along with the reverse light switch wiring going through the hole that the auto trans selector cable previously occupied:

https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7691/17132373379_2a3b97ff1d_z.jpg


The insulation material covering the transmission tunnel was in absolutely terrible condition. If I had known, I would have come up with something prior to address it, so it had to be cut back somewhat because the rearward part was so brittle. Inside the car, the console was test-fit with the shift knob temporarily installed to adjust the selector rod underneath. Once it feels like it was where it should be, the rubber boot was installed into the circular opening on the body.

Allowing the car to start without the automatic gearbox was actually the easiest part of this job. On my early-build 840, the K1 starter relay in the main fuse box can either be bypassed with a jumper wire, or simply by replacing it with this bright yellow "fake relay" jumper I bought from BMW for a few bucks. (Top row, third from left) No wiring necessary whatsoever:

https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7675/17317275852_9bf6bbae31_z.jpg


To make the reverse lights work, the wires are on the harness that plugged into the gear selector mechanism:

https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7756/17316721842_5c9c4e7730_z.jpg


However, I have a feeling there is another harness that had the exact same two colored wires on it that could have simply been plugged in. I might investigate this further at a later time. Since I don't believe in cutting any wires in the car, my friend made me some nice pin connectors from a spare BMW wiring harness:

https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8703/17318577265_93eed073ce_z.jpg


And they plug right in from the reverse light switch:

https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7724/17111134767_da04674e9f_z.jpg


Next is getting rid of the transmission fail-safe program warning on the OBC. This is simply done by grounding the gray/brown wire on the large white connector. Using a quick-connect, and a nice ground strap wire, we used one of the old automatic gear selector mounting bolts:

https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7708/17318136581_7329d3cc33_z.jpg


Exhaust back on with new brackets and o2 sensors installed:

https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7720/17130786228_5f61714d07_z.jpg


Filled the new transmission with fresh fluid, bled the clutch (long process) and drove right out... ;)

Did some cleaning of the engine area and interior, and I am very happy with what we were able to accomplish over just two days of work.

https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7783/17131692630_6e24532654_z.jpg

https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7762/17131456268_de7d13e625_z.jpg

https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8833/16696793944_ee84b6b294_c.jpg

Great write-up Olin. Thanks for the details & photos. Must be great to have this installation run so smoothly after such a wait.

Excellent post, great work and photography!

Hi Olin,

Great update and clean installation.

I do wander why you did not take the Gear box to a transmission shop to open and reseal it !!!

Every E46M3/E39M5 I have work with 90k miles+ on the clock they always establish leaks from body casting bolts on the bottom.

I hope you are my exemption pal because its a shame all that labor on the ground and a on the next engine oil change you see some sweat spot/s from the bottom of the tranny....

Regards
Anri

Hi Olin, Great update and clean installation. I do wander why you did not take the Gear box to a transmission shop to open and reseal it !!!

I did replace the radial seals on it, but there was no sign of leaks from any place on it.

:thumbup:

I did replace the radial seals on it, but there was no sign of leaks from any place on it.

Olin,

10years...old transmission every day is gifted till start establishing a sweat spot.

The casting/body is metal to metal with the Red Paste used from BMW (no gasket there).

Personally I when done several swaps S54 E30 M3 or E39 M5 clutch job and the tranny is out and I dont care if it leak or not I always open and reseal.....10+years Old paste the days are counting till start to leak.

Anyway as you said no leaks so far and hoping to stay that way down the road

Its a lot of fun to have the G420 apart...

Enjoy

Regards
Anri

http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=532958&stc=1http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=532959&stc=1

Great work and write up Olin !!
Helps other who plan to do "THE SWAP" ;)

Hi Olin,

Great update and clean installation.

I do wander why you did not take the Gear box to a transmission shop to open and reseal it !!!

Every E46M3/E39M5 I have work with 90k miles+ on the clock they always establish leaks from body casting bolts on the bottom.

I hope you are my exemption pal because its a shame all that labor on the ground and a on the next engine oil change you see some sweat spot/s from the bottom of the tranny....

Regards
Anri

I've never seen any of them leak at the seams and I've owned numerous E46 M3, 540i/6, M5s and my 420G E36 M3. One M5 is sitting at 173,000 miles. That is news to me.


Glad we finally got the swap all done Olin. Went a lot easier than I expected. Should note the hardest part is those stupid firewall clutch master grommets, my arms still hurt from that :mad

Awesome job Olin and great write-up. I know all of us 5 speed auto guys are jealous. :)

Very impressive Olin; jelly indeed.

Looks "natural" with that manual in there ;)

The pros make it look easy. Great write up Olin.

LouM...

Sa weet!
Beautiful setup. Great attention to detail.
A+

As mentioned, Great write up Olin!

Kudos to team "Olin & Braymond141"!

Fabulous job, great write up. Please give us some feedback as you get accustomed to your new driving experience.
Hey, with that lightweight V8, 6 speed, and the awesome Wokke chip, I bet you're gonna make make some of those V12 guys pretty jealous.

Really outstanding. It's obvious that you planned well to be able to do it in a garage in two days. BimmerFest here you come!

I bet you're gonna make make some of those V12 guys pretty jealous.

Impossible.

It could have 1000hp and have the ability to take flight, but the V12 guys would still never trade those extra cylinders to tell people they have.

Impossible.

It could have 1000hp and have the ability to take flight, but the V12 guys would still never trade those extra cylinders to tell people they have.

True that!

Really outstanding. It's obvious that you planned well to be able to do it in a garage in two days. BimmerFest here you come!

Thank you!

Yes, it did take a lot of planning and part-gathering to do it that fast.

However... I should note that there were some redundant small parts in the shift linkage, some unusable hydraulic line holders, and the proper hard line for the 840's slave cylinder is NLA. The E39 one does not fit (the connector is different) and the 850CSi one I got later was shaped wrong. We ended up using one from an E46 M3 that was laying around. That one was pre-bent closer to what was necessary to route the clutch line, and there is no bracket holding it to the side of the trans. As the only "cut corner" of the swap, I feel okay about it, but I will probably be adding a bracket later.

Impossible.

It could have 1000hp and have the ability to take flight, but the V12 guys would still never trade those extra cylinders to tell people they have.

#ShotsFired

Lulz

awesome, always admired your attention to detail

Is the Wokke chip still acting funny Olin? That's one of the only things we noticed that wasn't happy with the swap. There is a faint backfire type sound on off low rpm throttle clutched in coasting down hills. Seems like the auto tune chip expects the motor to always be in gear and at RPM.

- - - Updated - - -




Yes, it did take a lot of planning and part-gathering to do it that fast.



This. Olin was thorough in that regard. Aside from the E46 M3 slave hard line that we snagged from my parts pile, every single part we needed was on hand. Couldn't ask for an easier swap when all the homework is done.

Is the Wokke chip still acting funny Olin? That's one of the only things we noticed that wasn't happy with the swap. There is a faint backfire type sound on off low rpm throttle clutched in coasting down hills. Seems like the auto tune chip expects the motor to always be in gear and at RPM.

It seems to run a little better than it did the first night.

It seems to run a little better than it did the first night.

Good to know. I feel it ran great from day 1, just that faint backfire type sound. I wonder what Wokke has to offer on the subject?

Impossible.

It could have 1000hp and have the ability to take flight, but the V12 guys would still never trade those extra cylinders to tell people they have.

Not all of us! If you ever need a V12 850, let me be the first to offer you an even trade. Your car is spectacular.

Not all of us! If you ever need a V12 850, let me be the first to offer you an even trade. Your car is spectacular.

Thank you sir!

TWO DAYS! Hell....It takes me two days to change the spark plugs.
Great Work!!

TWO DAYS! Hell....It takes me two days to change the spark plugs.
Great Work!!

Haha yeah, I was surprised too. Started working after breakfast (10-11) each day and stopped before dinner...

Haha yeah, I was surprised too. Started working after breakfast (10-11) each day and stopped before dinner...


Nice garage....site for a possible future "Wrenchfest"?

Nice garage....site for a possible future "Wrenchfest"?

Hah. The E31 guys came through Oakhurst back in 2006 I think (on the way to Yosemite maybe?). I tried to help someone in an 850 who lost the use of one bank on his motor. Haven't seen you guys come back through since.

I don't have a huge shop here and there is nothing to do in this town, but you are all welcome to come wrench. It is my own private shop.

I don't have a huge shop here and there is nothing to do in this town, but you are all welcome to come wrench. It is my own private shop.

I didn't even think of this, but it's an awesome idea. Big empty parking lot, no neighbors, lots of natural scenery, and no "mechanic's business" to appeal to.

https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7710/17111155047_1a75e73257_b.jpg

How wide rears are you running?

How wide rears are you running?


275

+8 ;)

Fantastic job Olin. Everytime you look down at that six speed shifter you'll be reminded of all that hard work. And the tranny will reward you with a more fun experience. Welcome to the six speed club!!!!

Great work!

Is your new gearknob lit? With all that work, it deserves a nice lit gearknob.

Great work! Is your new gearknob lit? With all that work, it deserves a nice lit gearknob.


It would be if there was one available for the e31. I really liked the one-piece knob/boot.

Inspiring piece of work young Olin. Six speeds forever.

Fantastic job Olin. Everytime you look down at that six speed shifter you'll be reminded of all that hard work. And the tranny will reward you with a more fun experience. Welcome to the six speed club!!!!

+6

Job well done, Olin. And I see a couple of RC airplanes in the background. The silver one might be a P51-Mustang. That's where most of my time have been spent these days. I'm envious of your 6spd. swap sir.

How much are you planing to sell your 840Ci 6-Speed ? :)

I think he wants $47,500.

What the Millage and service history!? lol

I wasn't even so sure your were done with this swap, so initially, I was asking for updates, Lol. Wow.., I just want you to know that you will be the reason why I will convert my m60 to 6spd! Thanks for the detailed info on your swap.

I wasn't even so sure your were done with this swap, so initially, I was asking for updates, Lol. Wow.., I just want you to know that you will be the reason why I will convert my m60 to 6spd! Thanks for the detailed info on your swap.

Yep, been done for 6 months!

I'm glad you find it useful. Information sharing is what makes the E31 world turn...

What do you think about the shifter height? Could it be shorter? Where did you end up sourcing your driveshaft from?

Yes the shifter could be shorter. I'm not in love with the height and long throws. However, I wanted to start with building it with all the factory parts to see what it was like, and go from there. Also I have no real idea what shifters would work on it. The rod going from the transmission to the shifter shaft is 840-specific, and the commonly available kits for smaller cars are angled wrong. I did actually test fit one my friend had for an e46. I am totally open to suggestions, but there aren't a whole lot of manual 840s in the world. I don't think the 850 options will work on it, but I really don't know.

As for the drive shaft, I simply ordered it through the parts department at BMW. However, it is now blocked for ordering in the USA the same way the euro lights are.

Yes the shifter could be shorter. I'm not in love with the height and long throws. However, I wanted to start with building it with all the factory parts to see what it was like, and go from there. Also I have no real idea what shifters would work on it. The rod going from the transmission to the shifter shaft is 840-specific, and the commonly available kits for smaller cars are angled wrong. I did actually test fit one my friend had for an e46. I am totally open to suggestions, but there aren't a whole lot of manual 840s in the world. I don't think the 850 options will work on it, but I really don't know.

As for the drive shaft, I simply ordered it through the parts department at BMW. However, it is now blocked for ordering in the USA the same way the euro lights are.
gotcha. bringing home an 840 this weekend. already have a full 6spd drivetrain from an e34 car i picked up.

looking at driveshafts, the e46 driveshaft is the same length, 1418mm as what the 840 manual calls for. Im sure the flanges will have to be swapped but i have access to the e46 ds for free, so cant hurt to look at. Im sure sourcing one from bmw wont be cheap if at all possible, like you say. Can also always modify my auto ds.

I might look into the shifter thing tonight.

Yes the shifter could be shorter. I'm not in love with the height and long throws. However, I wanted to start with building it with all the factory parts to see what it was like, and go from there. Also I have no real idea what shifters would work on it. The rod going from the transmission to the shifter shaft is 840-specific, and the commonly available kits for smaller cars are angled wrong. I did actually test fit one my friend had for an e46. I am totally open to suggestions, but there aren't a whole lot of manual 840s in the world. I don't think the 850 options will work on it, but I really don't know.

As for the drive shaft, I simply ordered it through the parts department at BMW. However, it is now blocked for ordering in the USA the same way the euro lights are.

I have access to a machine shop. I can either shorten a stock one or machine a whole new. Does someone have one already loose i could borrow. I can take some measurements? I know of three we could sell right away!

I have access to a machine shop. I can either shorten a stock one or machine a whole new. Does someone have one already loose i could borrow. I can take some measurements? I know of three we could sell right away!

The stock 840Ci shifter-shaft itself is just the same one as an E30 3 uses.

The stock 840Ci shifter-shaft itself is just the same one as an E30 3 uses.

Good to know. I don't have one of those either, however probably much easier to source. Thanks Olin.

25117527246
Shift lever
From:05/02/2007

Supersedes:
25111221978 (09/01/1990 — 12/14/2007), Exchangeable retrospectively
25111221795 (09/01/1989 — 04/10/1997), nonexchangeable retrospectively
25111221096 (01/01/1987 — ), nonexchangeable retrospectively
25111220603 (09/02/1985 — 01/25/2007), nonexchangeable retrospectively
25111220326 (09/01/1982 — )

Part 25117527246 was found on the following vehicles:
3' E30   (01/1985 — 02/1994)
3' E36   (11/1989 — 08/2000)
8' E31   (12/1992 — 05/1999) V8 only
Z1 Roadster   (07/1988 — 06/1991)

lol @ Z1

25117527246
Shift lever
From:05/02/2007

Supersedes:
25111221978 (09/01/1990 — 12/14/2007), Exchangeable retrospectively
25111221795 (09/01/1989 — 04/10/1997), nonexchangeable retrospectively
25111221096 (01/01/1987 — ), nonexchangeable retrospectively
25111220603 (09/02/1985 — 01/25/2007), nonexchangeable retrospectively
25111220326 (09/01/1982 — )

Part 25117527246 was found on the following vehicles:
3' E30   (01/1985 — 02/1994)
3' E36   (11/1989 — 08/2000)
8' E31   (12/1992 — 05/1999) V8 only
Z1 Roadster   (07/1988 — 06/1991)

lol @ Z1

Always the man with all the info, thanks Olin.

I believe Terminator (Svein) in Norway used a short shifter that fits the E36 and E46. His thread is on 8.er.org from Feb 6th 2012 "From automatic to manual conversion 840"

I just put in an order for all the shifter linkage bits with my local dealer. Hopefully everything is available. I have an e34, complete donor, and Im interested to see how the Shifting Arm is different between the 2. luckily things like the pedals, master and slave cylinders are all the same and also the trans mount. save some coin there.

I havent gone to grab my e46 driveshaft yet to look at the differences yet. I already have a feeling that Im just going to need to take my auto ds to the shop to have it extended.

I just put in an order for all the shifter linkage bits with my local dealer. Hopefully everything is available. I have an e34, complete donor, and Im interested to see how the Shifting Arm is different between the 2. luckily things like the pedals, master and slave cylinders are all the same and also the trans mount. save some coin there.

I havent gone to grab my e46 driveshaft yet to look at the differences yet. I already have a feeling that Im just going to need to take my auto ds to the shop to have it extended.

The 840-specific shifting arm is adjustable and ungodly expensive for what it is...

What year is your 840Ci?

The 840-specific shifting arm is adjustable and ungodly expensive for what it is...

What year is your 840Ci?

the 840 is a 95.

The shifting arm is adjustable? This part number?



25111222366 (http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/part?id=EF51-EUR-10-1994-E31-BMW-840i&mg=25&sg=05&diagId=25_0005&q=25111222366)




Or did you mean the Selector Rod? This number: 25111222367
(http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/part?id=EF51-EUR-10-1994-E31-BMW-840i&mg=25&sg=05&diagId=25_0005&q=25111222367)
were you able to source any of this stuff outside of bmw? used?

Sorry, I meant the "selector rod" #4. The shifting arm #2 is also 840-specific, but it was cheap.

The only thing I got used was the transmission itself, and the clutch pedal from the junkyard. Everything else was brand new from BMW with the exception of the flywheel kit. I bought that online. Oh, and the wiring/connector for the backup lights I got from a junk car too.

Which part needs to be shortened? Just the shift lever, correct? How much would be suggested?

Maybe it was addressed but i didnt see was there any issues with the ECU looking for the slushbox???

Maybe it was addressed but i didnt see was there any issues with the ECU looking for the slushbox???

No, but my car has the earlier "404" Motronic, so it is a little simpler - no EWS either. The only electronic hurdles were: 1. Making it start without the automatic 2. Clearing the TRANS FAILSAFE PROG. warning, and 3. Making the backup lights work.

These three things are addressed in this thread. Instead of a jumper wire on the fuse box in place of the K1 Starter Relay, I simply swapped that relay with a "jumper" fake relay that I bought for $6 at BMW. This allows the engine to be started without being in "Park or Neutral."

That selector rod is $448 vs $27 for the one for an e39. I ran across a post that says it'll fit if you shorten it a bit. For a $421 potential savings it's worth a shot!

No, it's not. How much is a bit? When your going to this time and expense saving $400.00 isn't worth the possible grief you may find that you won't realize you have until it's drivable. Then what? It's very nice to just do this once and then drive it and not look back.

Well, I'll take a look at it when I get it and see what needs to be changed. If I can't modify it, I'll spring for the hideously over-priced one. It's just a linkage, and the fact that the 840 one is adjustable means there's a pretty wide tolerance.

I picked up a Getrag s6s420G out of a 2000 e39 540i. Cleaned it up a bit, and waiting for the seals and some other parts from ECS. The gearbox has a crankshaft sensor on the side, part #7:

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/showparts?id=EF71-EUR-10-1995-E31-BMW-840Ci&diagId=23_0731

On my auto, the crank sensor is at the front of the engine -- do I run the sensor from the gearbox or from the front, and just put a plug bolt in the unused hole?
Thanks!

On my auto, the crank sensor is at the front of the engine -- do I run the sensor from the gearbox or from the front, and just put a plug bolt in the unused hole?

You don't have to do anything, just leave it be. Or you can remove it, but you don't need to hook it up.

Thanks man, appreciate the fast response. I think I'll take it out and replace it with a bolt or some kind of plug.

Thanks man, appreciate the fast response. I think I'll take it out and replace it with a bolt or some kind of plug.

On mine, the sensor was damaged, so I just smoothed out the stub, and kept it as a plug. If you fill it with a bolt instead, just be careful it doesn't stick out and touch the flywheel.

Good call. I was going to machine a plug but this will save me quite a bit of time!

Olin, I don't remember seeing this part on your parts list, #10:

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/showparts?id=EF52-EUR-12_1993_E31_BMW_840i&diagId=21_0056#21521117729
(http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/showparts?id=EF52-EUR-12_1993_E31_BMW_840i&diagId=21_0056#21521117729)
Did you end up using this tank or if not how'd you plumb it? Looks like the mounting bracket is NLA.

Thanks.

Olin, I don't remember seeing this part on your parts list, #10:

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/showparts?id=EF52-EUR-12_1993_E31_BMW_840i&diagId=21_0056#21521117729
(http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/showparts?id=EF52-EUR-12_1993_E31_BMW_840i&diagId=21_0056#21521117729)
Did you end up using this tank or if not how'd you plumb it? Looks like the mounting bracket is NLA.

Thanks.

That reservoir and bracket are not used. you simply connect the hose from the master cylinder to the back of your existing brake fluid reservoir. The barbed end is already there. You just snip the end off.

The procedure was discussed in this write up.

Yeah I just re-read it, I think I pulled up a different diagram than the one I was originally using. Looks like they had two versions of the clutch hydraulics for the euro 840.

Decided to go with an OEM driveshaft and selector rod from Schmeidmann, both shipped for $1138. All the drive shaft places I called required that I send in the old one. I didn't want to wait and wanted to have all parts here before I begin. Not a bad deal, only $704 for the driveshaft.

Yeah I just re-read it, I think I pulled up a different diagram than the one I was originally using. Looks like they had two versions of the clutch hydraulics for the euro 840. Decided to go with an OEM driveshaft and selector rod from Schmeidmann, both shipped for $1138. All the drive shaft places I called required that I send in the old one. I didn't want to wait and wanted to have all parts here before I begin. Not a bad deal, only $704 for the driveshaft.

Totally worth it. It should come with everything ready to go in. You won't even have to grease the flange on the back. Better yet, you'll still have the stock one to sell/modify for someone else.

Haha, I'm with you - nothing beats turnkey solutions! My 840 has been up on blocks for a couple of months. It all started with a rear suspension rebuild, which led to a front suspension rebuild, new exhaust, new wheels, bearings, hubs and tires, door handle and seat cable repairs, homelink garage door entry and new keyless entry and a whole bunch of other stuff. And then hey, while I have it up on blocks, why not do the 6sp swap? It was you Olin that got me motivated when you did that 3.15LSD conversion, which I did a few years ago. 8's are fun to work on, I'm having a blast other than constantly waiting for parts to come in. When I'm done it'll be even better driving it.

I'm getting ready to tackle removing the auto trans. When I go to remove the lines from the trans-cooler like in your pic, should I expect a wave of fluid to come out? Also maybe I'm not getting your pic, but since you left the trans-cooler in, once you remove the lines don't the holes need to be plugged somehow?

Thanks!

I'm getting ready to tackle removing the auto trans. When I go to remove the lines from the trans-cooler like in your pic, should I expect a wave of fluid to come out? Also maybe I'm not getting your pic, but since you left the trans-cooler in, once you remove the lines don't the holes need to be plugged somehow? Thanks!

Yeah it will drain out so be ready. I didn't bother with plugging the holes since I'll be ripping it out once I replace the main radiator at some point.

Thanks Olin!

Got the lines pulled today along with all the peripheral stuff on the tranny. I put a bucket under each end which caught most of the fluid...then proceeded to knock one of the buckets over :-)

Started on the bell housing bolts - man are they a bitch or what! Will pick it up on Tuesday when I get back. For anyone considering this, it's really not that hard so far - thanks to this and Terminator's thread!

Got the lines pulled today along with all the peripheral stuff on the tranny. I put a bucket under each end which caught most of the fluid...then proceeded to knock one of the buckets over :-)

Started on the bell housing bolts - man are they a bitch or what! Will pick it up on Tuesday when I get back. For anyone considering this, it's really not that hard so far - thanks to this and Terminator's thread!

Make sure you're using a good sized breaker bar. 1/2" sockets and extensions if you can fit it. 3/8, small ratchets, and lower end tools will absorb all your effort to break the bolts loose. High quality (or correctly sized) tools really make this job so much easier.

I still think this project was the most fun Olin and I have done together. I agree, not hard at all!

Part of the fun and challenge is figuring out how to get that breaker bar up and inside with very little clearance. As my Dad used to say, "you just have to be smarter than your tools" :-)

Wondering what pedal assembly you ended up cannibalizing, to get your clutch/ brake assembly. You stated that you were going to either use an E34 or E39 assembly.

Which assembly did you end up going with, that allowed you to use your existing E31 mounting bracket?

Wondering what pedal assembly you ended up cannibalizing, to get your clutch/ brake assembly. You stated that you were going to either use an E34 or E39 assembly.

Which assembly did you end up going with, that allowed you to use your existing E31 mounting bracket?

E39 pedals are not compatible. I did not bother even unbolting the bracket. I just took the long bolt out of the brake pedal attachment, and added the smaller brake pedal, and the clutch pedal on the end. The pedals are the same on the E31, E32, and E34 across all models. I just snagged the two pedals from a junked E34 525i... There is no need to mess with the bracket or take anything out.

I need to re read the procedure for manual swap. This sounds like a great upgrade!

Thanks for all of the details Olin.

Quick update on the world's longest 6sp swap. Finally got the auto tranny out - a bit of a PITA to get to all the bolts but obviously doable. For me the biggest pain was the torque converter. It's tough to get a socket seated on the bolt heads but a swivel did the trick. As Olin said, these are really heavy, best to have a buddy with you when you do this. I'll attack the RMS, new flywheel, clutch and install the 6sp tranny next week when I get back from my trip!
578794578795

Can anyone share the approximate total cost of the parts for this swap? There's a car for sale that I'm interested in that already has this done, just wondering if it's worth the premium asking price. I have a lift, so I wouldn't be paying for labor. Thanks, Max

I'm at about $5k for all parts. Sorry, can't give you an exact figure as I've spent a bunch of $$ on other repairs at the same time and have no way to easily breakdown my receipts from ECS. Here are the biggies:

Getrag 420G - $400 used (local junk yard)
Driveshaft and Selector rod - $1044 (Schmeidmann)
All other parts on Olin's list - about $3500 (ECS)

Hope this helps!

Olin, you mentioned your heat insulation was all messed up - I assume it's this part?

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/showparts?id=EF71-EUR-10-1995-E31-BMW-840Ci&diagId=51_2015#51481970164

Since they're no longer made, has anyone found a suitable replacement for this? Mine's pretty beat up, the front part was severed from the rest.

I just trimmed back the mangled parts and left the okay parts attached.

If yours is too far gone spikec I bet Dynamat or similar material would work well.

https://www.amazon.com/Extreme-Dynamat-Xtreme-Sound-Deadening/dp/B002S4TPP2/ref=sr_1_6?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1471482768&sr=1-6&keywords=dynamat

https://www.amazon.com/Noico-Insulation-Self-adhesive-Deadening-Automotive/dp/B00URV8MFC/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1471482681&sr=8-5&keywords=sound+deadening

Thanks Dan, had some Noico in the lab for an old audio project, never thought to use it for this!

Btw Olin, did you use a M10x160mm bolt to connect both pedals to the pedal bracket? I ordered the 90mm bolt that was in your parts list, but there doesn't seem to be any other way to mount the pedals side-by-side without a long 160mm bolt going through both sets of bushings.

Btw Olin, did you use a M10x160mm bolt to connect both pedals to the pedal bracket? I ordered the 90mm bolt that was in your parts list, but there doesn't seem to be any other way to mount the pedals side-by-side without a long 160mm bolt going through both sets of bushings.

The long bolt and clutch pedal just came out of a manual E34 I found in the junkyard.

Gotya, thanks...on order ;-) I wonder why the realoem for the euro 840 shows the clutch pedal attached with the m10x90.

Got the pedals back in, clutch bled and tested. This thing works! Not bad for an old airline pilot guy [emoji41]
I tested it while still up on jack stands, without the exhaust. This thing sounds like a top fuel dragster when revved. Still have to get it all patched back together and do a road test, but I want to thank Olin and Terminator for making this doable!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Just wondering if you had any issues with getting the stick into reverse. I can feel all the gates in the gearbox 1-6, but it doesn't seem to want to get into reverse. I googled it and apparently you really have to force the stick left to compress the reverse spring. Just wondering about your experience with this. I'd hate to find out my Getrag 420 is bad, but they seem to be pretty bullet proof so I'm wondering if I'm missing something here.

Just wondering if you had any issues with getting the stick into reverse. I can feel all the gates in the gearbox 1-6, but it doesn't seem to want to get into reverse. I googled it and apparently you really have to force the stick left to compress the reverse spring. Just wondering about your experience with this. I'd hate to find out my Getrag 420 is bad, but they seem to be pretty bullet proof so I'm wondering if I'm missing something here.

I bet you're just not pushing it to the left hard enough.

I think it's an adjustment isue. The stick doesn't seem to be able to physically go over to the left far enough. I've fiddled with the selector rod to no avail. The BMW service manual says to put in in reverse, then use a template to line up the stick. I can't seem to manually put the thing into reverse to begin with.

Are you using the 840-specific linkage? If so, are you sure it isn't in upside-down or something?

Woo-hoo!!! Finally got it. I'm using all 840 stock parts. The selector rod for some reason didn't want to cooperate but I went back underneath and finally got the damn thing positioned properly. As I suspected, it was an adjustment issue. There's no real guidance on this anywhere, so like an infinite number of monkeys in front of an infinite number of typewriters, I now have reverse. Finally I can get the exhaust back on and get it road tested :buttrock:buttrock:buttrock

I am anxious to hear how it drives.

Road test - AOK! Runs really smooth through all gears, a lot of fun to drive. Still have to bring it to the shop to get the catback exhaust put on. Well worth the time and effort, as I'm sure others would agree!

For others..... http://www.ebay.com/itm/291905121444?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

For others..... http://www.ebay.com/itm/291905121444?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

Looks like E39 parts. The only thing from this that will work in an E31 is the transmission and clutch assembly. Those pedals, drive shaft, linkages, and clutch hydraulics will not fit the 8.

Yea I contacted the guy asking where the 8 series shifter linkage and interior bits were and he apologized, quickly updating the (Panjo) ad in the process.

Looks like E39 parts. The only thing from this that will work in an E31 is the transmission and clutch assembly. Those pedals, drive shaft, linkages, and clutch hydraulics will not fit the 8.

Hi Olin,

I have a bmw 840 M60 engine, I'm thinking to installa manual transmission S6S from 98 540, my question is wich will be the complications to install that transmission in a M60 engine, I have the mayority parts that you posted.

http://www.8er.org/forum/showthread.php?13164-From-automatic-to-manuel-conversion-840&referrerid=5465 (http://www.8er.org/forum/showthread.php?13164-From-automatic-to-manuel-conversion-840&referrerid=5465)
Check out this thread from 8.er.org. Svein/Terminator did his conversion with an M60. There are a lot of photos with this conversion too. I believe you will have to join to open the thread.

Hi Olin,

I have a bmw 840 M60 engine, I'm thinking to installa manual transmission S6S from 98 540, my question is wich will be the complications to install that transmission in a M60 engine, I have the mayority parts that you posted.

There were no complications. Between this thread and the one on 8er.org mentioned, you will have all the information you need.

Shifter:
Shift lever 25117527246
Shifting arm 25111222366
Bearing (shift lever) 25111220600
Selector rod 25111222367
Plastic washers (4) 25111220439
Securing clip (4) 25117571899
Gearshift rod joint 25117526415
Dowel pin 23411466134
Tension bush 25111203682
Plastic washer 25111434194
Shift arm bearing 25111222652
Rubber boot 25111434181
Bolt 25111222375
Bush bearing oval (2) 25117507695
Leather boot walk-nappa 25111221823


Olin,

I am getting some parts together to prepare for an eventual swap of my 560g to a 420g.
1st to 2nd is notchy, and I'm sure that it won't last forever.

Looking through the 840 specific shifter parts, the shifting arm is still available, and the shift lever, but the shift rod, 25111222367 seems to be NLA.

Do you happen to have the dimensions? I think with the length, and the offset, as it's angled at either end, I could have one fabricated when the time comes.

Schmeidmann to the rescue:

https://www.schmiedmann.com/en/catn-ol?q=25111222367

Schmeidmann to the rescue:

https://www.schmiedmann.com/en/catn-ol?q=25111222367

Thanks, I should have known to check Schmiedmann. Still a hell of a lot of money for a bent rod...

I'm gunning for the 6 speed swap. I bought myself a getrag 420g and pedal assembly from an e39 540i as well as a shifter arm specific for the 840. What other "essentials" should I look out for? I'm trying to collect all the components bit by bit. Also. How does one get a manual driveshaft? Do I have to take mine into a shop; do I have to buy another and have them both combined, or do I have one completely custom made? I know it's going to be impossible to find an oem one

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I'm gunning for the 6 speed swap. I bought myself a getrag 420g and pedal assembly from an e39 540i as well as a shifter arm specific for the 840. What other "essentials" should I look out for? I'm trying to collect all the components bit by bit. Also. How does one get a manual driveshaft? Do I have to take mine into a shop; do I have to buy another and have them both combined, or do I have one completely custom made? I know it's going to be impossible to find an oem one

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E39 pedals won't do anything for you. You need the clutch and brake pedal from any manual E31, E32, or E34 - doesn't matter what engine. On one of the earlier pages of this thread I supplied a parts list with part numbers that includes everything you must gather before attempting the swap. Even the exhaust brackets are different if you want to do it right. As for the driveshaft, I ordered the 840-specific manual one, but I was working for BMW at the time, so it was priced reasonably. Most people just have their auto one lengthened/balanced.

Thanks Olin! I've returned the e39 pedal and I'm gonna go hunt for an e34 clutch pedal at a junk yard. Any other parts shared with the e34 I could scavenge? Master and slave cylinders too? I'm probably going to grab all the hardware I take off of it as well to use.

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Where did you find the trans? At a yard? Did you have to remove it yourself?

Where did you find the trans? At a yard? Did you have to remove it yourself?I was tired of looking for one at a junkyard, I just found one on ebay for sale that dropped a significant value and snagged it when I got the notification for its price drop.

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Mind staying ballpark what you paid? How' many miles?

Mind staying ballpark what you paid? How' many miles?$750, 130k miles. I'm probably going to reseal across it to make it hardy again. I doubt it'll need a rebuild

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Is the selector rod 25111222367 specific only to the 840ci? If so, are there alternatives to getting one instead if dishing out $530?

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There is an e39 540i 6 speed for sale on Craig's list Chicago for $400.00. That trans should have a hole for the Crank sensor on the bellhousing which would allow for either the M60 or M62 engines.

Is the selector rod 25111222367 specific only to the 840ci? If so, are there alternatives to getting one instead if dishing out $530?

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That rod is specific to the manual 840. Either modify a rod from another model, that’s more affordable, or take the hit and buy the correct part. Judging by the price, there can’t be many of those selector rods left on the shelf.


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That rod is specific to the manual 840. Either modify a rod from another model, that’s more affordable, or take the hit and buy the correct part. Judging by the price, there can’t be many of those selector rods left on the shelf.


Sent from my iPhone using TapatalkYea, I'm hesitant to buy one, but if I can pull a junkyard and have it shortened or bent that would ideally work better for me.

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Hey Olin, is that shift lever out of an e36 318i? I'm ordering all my parts and I'm almost complete (minus driveshaft and flywheel) I have an e39 shift lever plus shift arm and selector rod. I have the e31 shift arm as well, but sadly I cannot source a shift lever. Could I just use the e39 linkage? Or would it struggle to fit?

Any input is appreciated, thanks.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210128/e5662f5171fc696beb5a55da5fb1b9c6.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210128/2d6f6906d2d07122f00e7af450db31ef.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210128/95f7b892e69a3b77acae270ff797347c.jpg

I don't believe E39 parts will be of any use. As far as I know, there are no substitutes for the 840-specific shifter support arm/selector rod. if you cannot source the right parts, you'll have to custom fabricate or modify something to work.

Hey guys, I'm doing a 850i 6 speed manual swap using a 420g, I wonder if someone has ever used a tranny mount and bracket made by BMW, at this moment the only way I see is making a custom one. plsss help me!!

I bought an e39 clutch which is 240mm, but im thinking I'd prefer to get a 265mm. I want a sportier feel so im considering ditching the luk e39 flywheel i got, and go for a jb racing e34 single mass flywheel:
https://www.ecstuning.com/b-assembled-by-ecs-parts/jb-racing-lightweight-aluminum-flywheel-clutch-kit/520-130-265kt/

However, will a e39 m5 clutch & flywheel fit on my 1994 840ci m60? I have the e39 getrag 6 speed. It appears that the m5 clutch & flywheel is cheaper:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/154074049225

Anyways, what's your input?

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Yes, as long as the clutch and flywheel match eachother you can use whichever you want. The 420G and its bellhousing are mechanically the same for all V8 applications. The "M62" later-version just has the crankshaft position sensor in the bottom of it.

Completed the 6 speed swap last year on my M60 (and loving it). However, the ASC light has been on ever since. Thoughts?

Check the wires to the wheel speed sensors? The insulation was coming off of mine on my 528. Just a guess.

Completed the 6 speed swap last year on my M60 (and loving it). However, the ASC light has been on ever since. Thoughts?

Did you remove the automatic transmission ECU? If so, put it back in. Had that issue with mine.

Completed the 6 speed swap last year on my M60 (and loving it). However, the ASC light has been on ever since. Thoughts?What kind of clutch/flywheel setup did you go with? And how did you acquire the driveshaft?

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Interesting..... I’ll give that a try. Glad I kept the unit. Any idea what info the auto ECU is giving the ASC system?

I assume the ASC would be fully functional as intended once the ECU gets plugged back in? Any issues you had, Olin?

E39 540 setup works. To my understanding the M5 clutch also an option, but not certain.
Existing driveshaft will need to modified.

What kind of clutch/flywheel setup did you go with? And how did you acquire the driveshaft?

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The driveshaft just needs to be extended on the front part of the shaft by 152mm. Any driveshaft shop can/will do that for about $100.

- - - Updated - - -

5 years later, and I am now about 60 days away from having a running driving 840i/6. lol.

Great thread. Realistically, if I have to pay a BMW shop to do this swap, is a $7500 budget too small? Thanks

Great thread. Realistically, if I have to pay a BMW shop to do this swap, is a $7500 budget too small? Thanks

$7500 for parts and labor? I would think that would be the very top end of the price spectrum.

ItÂ’s about $2000 in new parts: clutch, flywheel, shifter linkage/parts, all seals, brackets, etc.

The trans, pedals, mounts, etc can be had from an e34 540i. If your lucky, youÂ’ll get a nice flywheel and clutch setup from that car too and that will save you about $1k, from the new parts list. Expect to spend about $1k here.

Add in driveshaft rebuild/resize ($200) and misc exhaust stuff, you should be around $3500 for parts.

$4000, for shop charge onthis swap seems steep. Labor time on auto trans R&R is 7 hours. Add 5 for the extra time spent swapping, so 12 hours. At $130/hr, thatÂ’s $1,560.

I spent over $4000 for parts while working at a BMW dealership getting everything at near-cost 6 years ago when things were cheaper. The pedals came from the junkyard, and the transmission was $500 used. There is over $1000 just in small nuts/bolts/hardware for this project. $7500 for a shop to do it would be labor-only around here.

$7500 for parts and labor? I would think that would be the very top end of the price spectrum.

ItÂ’s about $2000 in new parts: clutch, flywheel, shifter linkage/parts, all seals, brackets, etc.

The trans, pedals, mounts, etc can be had from an e34 540i. If your lucky, you’ll get a nice flywheel and clutch setup from that car too and that will save you about $1k, from the new parts list. Expect to spend about $1k here.

Add in driveshaft rebuild/resize ($200) and misc exhaust stuff, you should be around $3500 for parts.

$4000, for shop charge onthis swap seems steep. Labor time on auto trans R&R is 7 hours. Add 5 for the extra time spent swapping, so 12 hours. At $130/hr, that’s $1,560.

12 hours? Ha... You are totally underestimating the work needed to install the pedals and clutch hydraulics. Several hours are necessary laying with your shoulders on the floor with the rest of your body half on the seat looking up with dashboard dirt landing in your face. Most normal shops would not even agree to take on this job.

The transmission swap is the easy part. There's the driveshaft, differential, and all the interior work. The shifter mechanism takes several hours to install. The entire exhaust system has to come out and the bracketing for it is totally different for the manual. Just disabling the bowden cable for the ignition interlock was an unexpected side-project. Also there are several electronic hurdles: making the car start without it thinking the car is in Park, wiring the reverse lights to work, and getting rid of the transmission failsafe warning. It could be done in a few days yes, but you're making it sound like a "swap" when it's more of a "build" that even a lot of professional mechanics would not want to do.

Also, anyone who has done this amount of work would not want a used/worn clutch assembly in there.

$7500 for parts and labor? I would think that would be the very top end of the price spectrum.

ItÂ’s about $2000 in new parts: clutch, flywheel, shifter linkage/parts, all seals, brackets, etc.

The trans, pedals, mounts, etc can be had from an e34 540i. If your lucky, youÂ’ll get a nice flywheel and clutch setup from that car too and that will save you about $1k, from the new parts list. Expect to spend about $1k here.

Add in driveshaft rebuild/resize ($200) and misc exhaust stuff, you should be around $3500 for parts.

$4000, for shop charge onthis swap seems steep. Labor time on auto trans R&R is 7 hours. Add 5 for the extra time spent swapping, so 12 hours. At $130/hr, thatÂ’s $1,560.

You're kidding... right?
12 hours? hahaha... thanks for the laugh.
Obviously, you've never done this swap. It is NOT a cakewalk, in any sense.

12 hours? Ha... You are totally underestimating the work needed to install the pedals and clutch hydraulics. Several hours are necessary laying with your shoulders on the floor with the rest of your body half on the seat looking up with dashboard dirt landing in your face. Most normal shops would not even agree to take on this job.

The transmission swap is the easy part. There's the driveshaft, differential, and all the interior work. The shifter mechanism takes several hours to install. The entire exhaust system has to come out and the bracketing for it is totally different for the manual. Just disabling the bowden cable for the ignition interlock was an unexpected side-project. Also there are several electronic hurdles: making the car start without it thinking the car is in Park, wiring the reverse lights to work, and getting rid of the transmission failsafe warning. It could be done in a few days yes, but you're making it sound like a "swap" when it's more of a "build" that even a lot of professional mechanics would not want to do.

Also, anyone who has done this amount of work would not want a used/worn clutch assembly in there.

I’ve swapped lots of motors, transmissions and pedals in e30/e36/e34/e32. This will be my first e31.

The pedal job sucks, yes. But it’s 2 hour job and it’s the worst part of the job. I’ve already done it in the e31. The console work is an hour altogether, I’ve also done that. So that’s 10 hours and I padded a few hours for CP rate that most techs would also add. And you get to save some time because you don’t have to refill the auto trans.

Olin, you bought almost every part new from BMW. That’s not necessary.

There is absolutely nothing wrong with a resurfaced flywheel that’s in spec. Same with the clutch. This isn’t a Ferrari.

That’s just my opinion as a guy who has owned over 50 BMW’s and done all the work myself.

uh boy... We are so excited to have you show us all how this is done. It's not like any of us have any sort of experience with these cars. So Welcome!
...and do keep us posted how this all turns out for you. ;)

uh boy... We are so excited to have you show us all how this is done. It's not like any of us have any sort of experience with these cars. So Welcome!
...and do keep us posted how this all turns out for you. ;)

Everyone has different opinions.

And I stated that my opinion, Paying $7500 in labor alone for this project is stupid. I don’t even think Olin would pay that. Which is why he did it himself over a weekend with a buddy and got done early. It’s not that hard and it doesn’t take that long.

At the end of the day. This is just a simple to work on, old BMW.

I also bought every part and nut and bolt to do this job. All in, it cost me about $4700. Not everything came from BMW. I paid for 9 hours of labor after what prep I did, like install the pedal and master cylinder and electrical work. The shop I sent it to said it was a straight ahead project. They sent out the drive shaft to be cut but I finally bit the bullet a year later and dropped another $900.00 and bought a new driveshaft. To my delight it bolted right in like it was supposed to.

The rest of the project that Olin and I have completed is the 3.10 LSD differential. Olin did it himself and I used my wallet.

I did the Hyper method front shocks and the Euro springs to be rid of the Eibach springs and Bilstein shocks the previous owner installed.

Your car is an empty canvas was for your improvisation.

In my opinion, the next step would be the installation of an M5 motor to up the ponies to CSI spec.

Just completed my 6 speed swap yesterday. In total it ran me around $4000 in parts from BMW and sourced outside. Custom driveshaft and custom selector rod were used with what I beleive to be a e36 (m3?) Shift lever. Took me about 2 weeks, mostly just waited for the custom driveshaft, but it was really closer to 5 full days of working on it.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210702/ae784c6a85c0f95d8e815f55519de271.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210702/9b85c6d1d37c9843ea2925d10750e2b6.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210702/41ec21914d80d2c79d114483b2432bd9.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210702/104c8d514ef2f0c1debf2c7717293eed.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210702/2ff4850a06ed6063ccf5bed7a8234951.jpg

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Well done - and 4 grand isn't bad at all!

I will say for anyone who wants to do this endeavor, go for the 3.15 differential, I have a 3.64 and 1st gear is hardly useful since its so sensitive!

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I will say for anyone who wants to do this endeavor, go for the 3.15 differential, I have a 3.64 and 1st gear is hardly useful since its so sensitive

I agree. 1st gear is short even with the 3.15 limited-slip...same gearing as e39 M5 actually.

I agree. 1st gear is short even with the 3.15 limited-slip...same gearing as e39 M5 actually.

Whatever “OJ”, your 8er still looks good.

Well done - and 4 grand isn't bad at all!Thanks Timm! It would've been cheaper had I not gone with the aftermarket flywheel and clutch.

Instead of the dualmass flywheel I went with the UUC singlemass aluminum lightened flywheel, which comes with a sprung clutch. It's still in the break in period, so I can't do hard pulls yet, but my car begs too lol. The motor revs so quick and reacts so much faster than when it was with the auto. I know this car isn't a sports car, but with my quick arms installed and the bilstein struts it handles so nimble, so its hard to pretend it isn't just a GT.

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hi to all, i am in process of sourcing the final parts for this conversion to to a 1996 steptronic v8 auto. (5hp30) i have everything, except the e31 prop shaft... so will get the original one modified. (lengthened) i just wondered that as i got the e39 version gearbox. (s420 6 speed) (with crankshaft position sensor in bell housing) i got the dual mass flywheel with the rest of the donor parts. and im wondering, should i go for a lightened single mass, (conventional) flywheel, or stick wit the dual? i guess i should replace the clutch, in its entirety, whilst i have the opportunity.. as this sometimes means buying a new dual mass flywheel at same time. so its an expensive replacement... i have the option, of a new lightened flywheel, at £450 GB sterling and a flywheel clutch combo, at around £850... but, as my clutch looks plenty meaty, im tempted to just go with the lightened flywheel... i only want the 'driving experience', and not for any track days, racing or drifting etc. has anyone with a lightened flywheel 840 have any comments to add please? there are a few 540i's on youtube with the lightened flywheel, and they love it. the weight is 28kg, dual, and 14kg single, and the single mass is biased to inner weight, not outer edge. -like the dual. so spin up is fast, but a little edgy on typical gearchanges, that are not near 'high revving.' all my bmw's, except a 7 series, have been manual, and have been a far better experience, so im very optimistic.
as said i have all parts, inc the dual mass flywheel, e34 pedals, all bolts... just the 540i selector rod to shorten, and the propshaft to get lengthened. the job is ready to do, unless i wait for a lightened flywheel. -car is otherwise stock.

hi to all, i am in process of sourcing the final parts for this conversion to to a 1996 steptronic v8 auto. (5hp30) i have everything, except the e31 prop shaft... so will get the original one modified. (lengthened) i just wondered that as i got the e39 version gearbox. (s420 6 speed) (with crankshaft position sensor in bell housing) i got the dual mass flywheel with the rest of the donor parts. and im wondering, should i go for a lightened single mass, (conventional) flywheel, or stick wit the dual? i guess i should replace the clutch, in its entirety, whilst i have the opportunity.. as this sometimes means buying a new dual mass flywheel at same time. so its an expensive replacement... i have the option, of a new lightened flywheel, at £450 GB sterling and a flywheel clutch combo, at around £850... but, as my clutch looks plenty meaty, im tempted to just go with the lightened flywheel... i only want the 'driving experience', and not for any track days, racing or drifting etc. has anyone with a lightened flywheel 840 have any comments to add please? there are a few 540i's on youtube with the lightened flywheel, and they love it. the weight is 28kg, dual, and 14kg single, and the single mass is biased to inner weight, not outer edge. -like the dual. so spin up is fast, but a little edgy on typical gearchanges, that are not near 'high revving.' all my bmw's, except a 7 series, have been manual, and have been a far better experience, so im very optimistic.
as said i have all parts, inc the dual mass flywheel, e34 pedals, all bolts... just the 540i selector rod to shorten, and the propshaft to get lengthened. the job is ready to do, unless i wait for a lightened flywheel. -car is otherwise stock.Read posts above, I went with UUC e34 540 flywheel, and the car revs much more happily. I'm sure with some proper headers and a tune from sssquid it could push 315hp.

The lightened flywheel helps reduce rotational mass and because the clutch they offer with it is a sprung clutch (just buy it, no reason not to buy them together) there's rarely any chatter, especially if you use the proper fluids that they recommend.

The only thing about lightweight flywheels is that you need to revv the engine more to get the clutch to grab without stalling, there is less "synthetic" torque for it to grab at low rpm's so easily.

You also need to break in for about 1000 miles. 500 of which are city miles. Its not oem so you have to ensure you are properly breaking it in, granny shifting and all.

What's nice about these flywheels is that they are servicable. Expensive, but servicable. 1.4kish for it, but its more reliable and will last longer than any dual mass flywheel.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210916/b79d7d345d37c10bd64f1539971918e2.jpg

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What's your final gear ratio?

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What's your final gear ratio?

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stock 2.93? I will drive it with this, and decide if I still want to raise the ratio. the idea of 6th gear cruising, is great for MPG... and 5th gear driving, is still fine... I have the open diff, but ideally would grab the LSD if one was at the right price. -3.15.... but im keeping the job simple at present....

ok... so I have begun my manual conversion today. spent most of today, changing out the right hand drive pedal box... I obtained an e34 pedal box... and initially thought I could just remove and swap out the clutch pedal and clutch cylinder.... but the e34 one has a small locater, above the clutch spring, which my existing pedal box doesn't have... so, I had to remove all the old box... it was a horrid job, necessitating the steering column dismantled, decoupled, and dangled down, the brake pedal actuating rod unscrewed as mine is an RHD car. this part was my downfall..I have got almost all the parts back together, but whilst I unscrewed the rod, so I could withdraw the old pedal box forward, and off the steering lower column... the rod unscrews at both ends, so tomorrow after it stops raining, I was be dismantling the passenger side footwell, to relocate it, and do up the adjustment. I should end up with a drivable Auto, with a spare pedal....quite a tough job today...
thinking about things, I need to check that the clutch master cylinder, protrudes enough underneath, to be able to screw in the nipple to fit the hydraulic metal pipe in. this needs to be made up, as I have conflict of parts from the e39 'set' I purchased. so it will have a short metal pipe, going to a brake flex hose, and back to a metal pipe to the slave cylinder. then I will get the included clutch reservoir from the e39, strapped to somewhere near the master brake reservoir.


edit.. completed pedal box change out. 697699

Guys, after completing the manual gearbox changeout, my car is running and driving, however, I do have a few problems left over since completion.
I used the 540 6 speed, and followed the above advice, but used a lengthened e31 auto propshaft, which is all ok. the main problem was that mentioned above, in the 'how to' =the steering lock release cable, to the auto selector, was not present, on my 1997 model, and, if I drive the car 'normally' there is no issue. however if I give it the beans, and accelerate harshly, full throttle, in 1st, the steering column, will lock solid, and not allow any direction change at all, either straight, or 'off straight'. it sort of vibrates, and tries to hold the steering in it present position. I will be taking apart the cowling at next opportunity to investigate. secondly, the 'trans failsafe mode' still engages, in the MID, with the gearbox ecu still fitted, and the brown and white wire, mentioned above, in the top of the tunnel area, earthed as per guidance above.. grounded, not cut I should add. I also had to remove the inhibitor quadrant from the old gearbox, and fit that, to the loom, in neutral position, for it to allow the engine to start. so I have this left over, and strapped to the inner wing. I can investigate the wiring, and trace back the wires, and shorten/join those, under the car, in their 'neutral' configuration, and then the inhibitor won't be needed. I have the reverse lights to wire in, as I ran out of time to get those wired... other than these problems, the car is totally transformed, and is a joy to drive. quite long gears, with the original open diff still fitted. but wow, what a 'rocket' of a car now! the acceleration, as quite brutal, and very direct. but with the steering column issue, its not to be 'toyed' with at present.
...any comments, suggestions, are very welcome. and again, thanks for the above post, and method/pictures.

Guys, after completing the manual gearbox changeout, my car is running and driving, however, I do have a few problems left over since completion.
I used the 540 6 speed, and followed the above advice, but used a lengthened e31 auto propshaft, which is all ok. the main problem was that mentioned above, in the 'how to' =the steering lock release cable, to the auto selector, was not present, on my 1997 model, and, if I drive the car 'normally' there is no issue. however if I give it the beans, and accelerate harshly, full throttle, in 1st, the steering column, will lock solid, and not allow any direction change at all, either straight, or 'off straight'. it sort of vibrates, and tries to hold the steering in it present position. I will be taking apart the cowling at next opportunity to investigate. secondly, the 'trans failsafe mode' still engages, in the MID, with the gearbox ecu still fitted, and the brown and white wire, mentioned above, in the top of the tunnel area, earthed as per guidance above.. grounded, not cut I should add. I also had to remove the inhibitor quadrant from the old gearbox, and fit that, to the loom, in neutral position, for it to allow the engine to start. so I have this left over, and strapped to the inner wing. I can investigate the wiring, and trace back the wires, and shorten/join those, under the car, in their 'neutral' configuration, and then the inhibitor won't be needed. I have the reverse lights to wire in, as I ran out of time to get those wired... other than these problems, the car is totally transformed, and is a joy to drive. quite long gears, with the original open diff still fitted. but wow, what a 'rocket' of a car now! the acceleration, as quite brutal, and very direct. but with the steering column issue, its not to be 'toyed' with at present.
...any comments, suggestions, are very welcome. and again, thanks for the above post, and method/pictures.

This is a later M62 car, so...
You'll have to re-flash the ECU so it thinks it is a factory 6 speed... they delivered those in the UK and EU, so that should be simple. THAT will be your main hurdle to eliminate the "Failsafe" nonsense - as there are modules (including the ECU) that expect signals from the non existent transmission controller... and you'll need to tweak the GM/SA code in the EWS and EKM too.
There is no way to eliminate the error without the ECU reflash. Unplug the trans control module completely.
If you're not familiar with the proper procedures to do all that, or do not have the proper equipment - find someone over that that does. You can actually do all of this through Progman, but it is easier to use that to do the ECU and then use NCS Expert / Dummy to do the modules.

As for your inhibitor quadrant, the socket that plugs into (X8532) has everything you need to do this properly...
Cut the pigtail to the shift switches. Tie pin #4 and pin #5 together yellow wire & (I think) a red/yellow. Been a while, but the wires to those pins are the ones.

Splice the wires from the new trans reverse switch (l/h side of the rear of the transmission) and wire it to pins #7 & #8 of that same connector.
That will do it.

wow, thanks that's my next problem to be solved. I don't have access to reflash, but anyone near to London UK, that can, please reply here, thanks. I shall get onto the quadrant wiring fix, and the reversing lights...thats quite straight forward, so guys... who can help me with reflashing, please. going to change out the power steering pump this week, to eliminate any high pressure problems, that affecting high-rev take off, to my steering, (as above).

Sourced my 420g this weekend. Now, the rest of the parts. What should be done to the trans to clean and service, seals on either end….? Degrease without contamination of the internals?


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I believe Woke sells an ECU that he can program for the manual trans. If so, it's plug and play.

Not sure, but after talking with some In the know, I believe I have an OBD1 car with first Gen EWS. This may take a little more programming? I think DUDMD also does this.


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Yes IJustDrive, you are correct. I bought my chip from DUDMD and he programed it for the manual trans. The revs will drop faster between shifts with his chip than with a stock chip. My car is a 95 840 and OBD1. I believe the key to using the DUDMD chip was going with a different ECU which you can buy from him, and clipping one connector inside, and then changing the chip. DUDMD (Demetri) can also set up the ECU for you in advance if you like, so you only have to plug it in.

DUDMD also walked me through bypassing the EWS system. Now I can buy all the keys I want on Ebay for $4.95 and there is no problem using them. It was very simple to bypass the EWS.

Great news. I was probably going to contact DUD for the chip, but good to know he’ll provide a turn key solution (pun intended). I wanted to keep my old ECU just in case I wanted to return to stock (don’t know why). What was the total cost if you don’t mind me asking? You can PM if need be. Probably get started in a couple of months.


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I can't find the invoice for the chip from DUDMD but I think it was around $250 to $400 for an ECU and the chip. You do need a different ECU and I kept my old ECU as well. If you have a performance chip in your original ECU, you can remove it and sell it and, I sold the Dinan chip from my auto trans ECU too. I have looked at Olin's post for his conversion but I used the post from Terminator from the international 8er community. I did my conversion before Olin, so his post was not yet complete. After the conversion you will find the car is still not a sports car even though you will shed about 200 pounds, but it is way more enjoyable to drive. I also did the 3.15 LSD conversion and that also helped increase the fun factor.

I would like to find a set of headers to see if that will help add a few ponies and I would love to do the e39 M5 motor conversion down the road. There is a guy here on the forum who had it done at a shop in CA and I subscribed, but I never saw the outcome of that project.

So here's the thing. A few years ago, I had purchased and sold the Avusblau 840 car from John Burgan (the guy who had it built). 4.4 m62, 3.15, 6sp Manual, Supersprint. Should have never sold it, I'm an idiot. I find myself now trying to recreate that car. I'll never get there, but trying real hard. It was a 94, had a PowerChip in the 404 and a bunch of Euro code updates on the other stuff. The dash read in Km's so I found someone that could make the appropriate adjustments. I had to keep swapping in the OEM chip to get it to pass CA Smog. Anyway, back to now, I've got the 3:15 installed already, now getting ready to do the manual. Probably won't do the engine conversion as it's a little pricey. Ultimately I'd like to get an m62b46 (read x5 4.6is) and do a hybrid (probably even more $$$) and get close to an Alpina 846Ci (B8) car for that era (they made an E36 version). Olin lives in my area and we've had many conversations about this. I may need DUD to produce me two chips for the ECU, One CA Smog ready and the other more performance oriented.

I agree. 1st gear is short even with the 3.15 limited-slip...same gearing as e39 M5 actually.

That being said, how would the Single Mass to with the 3:15? I found the Dual Mass added more low end torque that really wasn't necessary to launch the car given the lower diff ratio?

That being said, how would the Single Mass to with the 3:15? I found the Dual Mass added more low end torque that really wasn't necessary to launch the car given the lower diff ratio?My single mass flywheel is kinda finicky to shift into 1st gear, feels like you really have to slip the clutch otherwise it bites hard and jerky. Otherwise its a fun mod, makes higher end power. Kind of counter untiutive with the m60 since it has lower torque than the m62 or vanos varients. But when you revv it up it pulls. Its a fun mod if you like going fast, but doesn't retain the bmw refinement that some people enjoy in these cars.

I also have a 3.15 lsd for reference. When I had the 3.64, first gear wasn't drivable since it was so low. Could crawl at walking speed pretty much. The DUD tune i got makes higher end power and pushes the revv limit to 7k. It also got rid of the automatic revv hang. I am eventually gonna build a m60b44 hybrid so I can up the torque which this motor probably needs.

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Hi all! In the midst of an S62 swap on a 96 840Ci. We're using the G420 from the M5 obviously, but I'm just curious as to feedback on the shift lever options. I saw someone mention E30 and another person mention E36 M3. Do we have a final verdict as to the best one for this car?

Build thread for reference:
https://www.m5board.com/threads/making-the-m8.611331/ (https://www.m5board.com/threads/making-the-m8.611331/)

The original factory 840Ci manual shifter is shared with the E30 325i and some other cars... I have since swapped for a Z3 one that has dramatically shortened it.

The original factory 840Ci manual shifter is shared with the E30 325i and some other cars... I have since swapped for a Z3 one that has dramatically shortened it.

Thanks for the reply. Do you have any photos/videos of your Z3 setup? I know that was a common short shift solution for a variety of 90s/2000s cars. I don’t like that look where the shifter barely sticks out over the console though lol.

What did you do for the leather boot? The factory one seems to be ala a39 m5 where it’s one solid piece with the knob. (P/n 25111221739 for reference).

Thanks!!!

The original factory 840Ci manual shifter is shared with the E30 325i and some other cars... I have since swapped for a Z3 one that has dramatically shortened it.

Yeah Olin let’s see some pics!

What did you do for the leather boot? The factory one seems to be ala a39 m5 where it’s one solid piece with the knob. (P/n 25111221739 for reference).

One option:

I removed the frame from my existing one piece boot, added an e31 specific Redline leather boot, and fitted an illuminated ZHP knob from an f10 m5, which involves cutting!

To replicate this, without cutting up an e31 boot, there is a person on the Facebook group who was 3D printing the frame. Then add the redline boot, and your choice of knob.


Frame (or use 3D printed copy if still available):
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220318/ee5aa7071116c781343ac06a3b03efda.jpg

Redline e31 boot fitted to frame, and f10 knob carefully cut from its boot. Note pigtail added, (via ebay) which can be spiced into existing auto gearshift illumination.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220318/904460857c0d5e5b7ada0e213a95e071.jpg


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The original factory 840Ci manual shifter is shared with the E30 325i and some other cars... I have since swapped for a Z3 one that has dramatically shortened it.I am using either an m3 or z3m shifter. It was labeled as e36m and shifts real short. Much shorter feel than my z3m which leads me to wonder

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Thanks for the reply. Do you have any photos/videos of your Z3 setup? I know that was a common short shift solution for a variety of 90s/2000s cars. I don’t like that look where the shifter barely sticks out over the console though lol.

What did you do for the leather boot? The factory one seems to be ala a39 m5 where it’s one solid piece with the knob. (P/n 25111221739 for reference).

Thanks!!!

I will see if I have some pics. I doubt it though,.

As for the boot/knob, I just got the factory one. They should still be easily ordered still. I was kinda crazy about making it so that even a BMW technician would not be able to tell this car was converted. There is nothing cut, modified, fabricated, or custom-made.

I will see if I have some pics. I doubt it though,.

As for the boot/knob, I just got the factory one. They should still be easily ordered still. I was kinda crazy about making it so that even a BMW technician would not be able to tell this car was converted. There is nothing cut, modified, fabricated, or custom-made.I'm using an e46 m3 boot that I stretched slightly to fit. I bought it with a zhp shifter for 50 bucks and decided to make it work.

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I'm almost done acquiring my parts. Last thing up and probably the most important is this darn shift lever. I found this comparison on the different z3 options. Olin, which one do you have? I understand that the 545 short lever is also an option, but I don't know how that compares?

https://forum.bmw5.co.uk/topic/73482-short-shift-from-bmw/

I fitted the Z3M shifter, 25117527254 when I refitted my transmission. Seems to be popular short shift mod choice.

Here's a comparison of Z3M vs 545i shift levers;
https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/forum/e30-technical-forums/e30-faq-and-diy/3982-shift-lever-and-short-shifters/page47#post3309573

I fitted the Z3M shifter, 25117527254 when I refitted my transmission. Seems to be popular short shift mod choice.

Here's a comparison of Z3M vs 545i shift levers;
https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/forum/e30-technical-forums/e30-faq-and-diy/3982-shift-lever-and-short-shifters/page47#post3309573

That's the one I replaced mine with.

Xing6666, I have followed in Olin's footsteps and did the 6-speed swap, the 3.15 LSD swap, the M3 steering wheel, the Hyper Method suspension and some style 37 M Pars. The final piece of the puzzle would be the S62 swap. Can you keep us posted on your progress? There is another fellow with Lambo style doors who was having the S62 swap done at a shop in CA, but he hasn't added any updates in many months. My thought is the throttle peddle and the ECU wiring are the parts that would be the most difficult to overcome.
It is my Opinion that with all these swaps, especially the S 62, the 840 could be the as powerful and easily handle as well as the CSI while relatively being a sleeper.

Greetings Olin,
I'm in the finals steps of completing the swap on my 94' 840 as well. Unfortunately I'm struggling in the easiest portion. I can't get the car started.
In regards to defeating the "Automatic Fail Safe" Looks like all you did is tap/splice into the top left Grey/Brown wire and just grounded it? Is that correct?
I de-pinned the wire and simply just grounded it. Isn't the this the same? Is this wrong? (See pic)

As for the for the starter relay, I "jumped" pin 85 & 86 just to get the car started. Is this correct? I'll eventfully get the fake relay (see pic)
Feedback and guidance is appreciated.
Thank you

Update: 1 hour later....
I re-pinned the brown/Grey wire back to its original position, plugged it in and spliced in a ground to the chassis.
No Start :-(

720121720122

Wrong pins jumped. I pulled out the dummy relay today for you (and anyone else who wanders into this writeup) to show which are connected:

720153

Top middle and right side middle

Got it.....
What about the grey/brown wire?
You left it pugged in and just grounder it right?

Got it.....
What about the grey/brown wire?
You left it pugged in and just grounder it right?

Yeah that just gets rid of the TRANS FAILSAFE PROG warning

Great write up Olin. This is of great help to me 🫡🫡🫡🫡

Thanks! I got a lot of help from the senior E31 community when first I got my 840Ci 16 years ago, and now it's my turn.

This thread helped me pull the trigger to swap mine as well so thank you! Currently accumulating parts, surprised I could still order the driveshaft and selector rod from Schmiedmann! After they arrive next week all that’s left is finding a 420g

...all that’s left is finding a 420g

That's the easy part! I got mine from an auto recycling company for $500 with a 1-year warranty. It came out of a 2000 540i.

My thing right now is i don’t have a starter relay my cars build date is 10/94 but it’s a 95, have to find the ews module.

My thing right now is i don’t have a starter relay my cars build date is 10/94 but it’s a 95, have to find the ews module.

I was under the impression that EWS was introduced starting with 01/1995 cars. Did you already check in the fuse box and see that the relay position was blocked off?

I was under the impression that EWS was introduced starting with 01/1995 cars. Did you already check in the fuse box and see that the relay position was blocked off?

yes it has a cover over it my vin is cc9983

721216
There it is 😂

I was under the impression that EWS was introduced starting with 01/1995 cars. Did you already check in the fuse box and see that the relay position was blocked off?

I found this thread which refers to my situation https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?2299673-840i-no-start-suspect-immobilizer

I was under the impression that EWS was introduced starting with 01/1995 cars. Did you already check in the fuse box and see that the relay position was blocked off?

I found this thread you were on it’s the same situation that i’m in. https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?2299673-840i-no-start-suspect-immobilizer